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FOTOmaki: Special Effects Photography

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Experience is the best teacher...

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FILM DEV Tips:

AGFA 25: tmax dev/ 1:4, 6 min -- D76 undiluted 6 1/2 min

ILFORD DELTA 3200:
ei 1600/ tmax dev 7min /d76 9min
ei 3200/ 8min / 12min

HP5 400:
@ 800/ hc110b 9min at 70*f.
@1600/ d76 str8 18 min-68*f, 15min-72*f.

FUJI NEOPAN 1600:
ei 1600/ tmax dev 7min

KODAK TRI-X:
@1600/ IlfUniv dev 1:29, 7min-68*f.
(print on #2 paper-fiber best results)

KODAK TMAX FILMS:
TMZ 3200
@ ei 1600/ tmax dev 7min | d76 str8 9 min
@ ei 3200/ dev 9 1/2 | 11 min
hc110b 8min-70*f
TURA 150:
@ 150/ D76 str8 - 6 min at 70*f.

FORTE 200:
@400/ hc110b 6min-70*f
FORTE 400:
@ ei 1600/ hc110b 9 1/2 min at 70*f.






here are some of my tips and tricks I've learned while doing photography.
Please feel free to contribute your own tips -write them in the guestbook.

BLACK AND WHITE INFRARED FILM:

"BumberThing"  Kodak HIE rated @ 200, with 25a filter on lens, pentax me: f22, 1/60 in very bright sun! Printed on 7 year old Agfa brovira #4 fiber paper. Notice the edge fog and buff coloration.

Kodak HIE : if u want a really blown-out, post-apocalyptic image-then rate your film over
100 ASA, like anything from 160-400 and use a 25a red filter on your lens and develop it at 70*f in Dektol 1:1, for 10 1/2 minutes. Water bath at 70*f for 15 sec, heavy agitation, and dump. Quickly fill your tank ( must use metal) with the developer, agitate for full 15 seconds in the first step, then continue ever 30sec for 10sec rolling
like sideways figure 8- agitation style. Use Stop Bath- 1min
medium agitation -figure 8-. Fixer- ilf universal for whatever it says on the bottle for film. Rinse with water for 2min, then its Orbit Bath for 2min, with agitation (read the directions),RINSE with WATER 2-3min. Dip in photoflo, unfurl your film , and hang in a dust free area,
shower stall works well.

Printing the negs. They will look overexposed, but they will print ok, depends on you the printer, patience counts here.

Contact sheet: Fiber Graded then use a #1
VCpapers: Use no filter/use a strip of paper running thru the picts at a diagonal, so u get more than one frame on it.
expose at f2.8 for 4sec. do test pieces like this until u get some satisfactory images. THEN, do the whole sheet at the roughly right exposure. Keep track of exposures, write on the backs of your test pieces!

INFO: Enlarger height, which lens focal length, Fstop, timed exposures, paper brand/type, contrast grade or filter.

When u get something u like make 3 prints. And then change paper grades, to a 3 1/2 or a 4, u'll have to make sure there isn't any fogging happening during your exposure.

Maybe wrap the enlarger lens area with black plastic.

Digital Infrared Site

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The Women Of Taiko -  series 1984-present.   - pos/neg sandwich  print.

Take a contact sheet, photocopy it on acetate then cut out the row of pics that u like and align the frame up with its negative counterpart, slightly off so that u get a edge showing. Tape it together so u can slide them in the neg carrier. Make a print. OR, make your 'print' on kodalith film and develop it in dektol 1:1 stop and fix, wash it the reg way- same as paper. THEN use that piece of film as your 'neg' and make a print.

One of these ways will get to this kind of effect,
just experiment.

order some cheap fiber paper and kodalith from Freestyle Sales. Co. in LA--(check the links page).

Ilford SFX film : film rated at  250, Nikon 2000 w/sigma 24-50 lens w/ 25a filter , flash covered with an 87c filter .

"Memory 1985" - Pentax Spotmatic with 50mm lens, 400 EI 800, d76-16min 68*f.

Chemical contamination Print- partial development and re-exposing with the wrong chems on it, and soaked in Coca Cola for the iron-fx! Agfa 4 fiber paper. ( TSUNAMI taiko)




























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